Tasting the Town & Country Cocktail
We asked some of the nation's top bars and restaurants to create a cocktail worthy of this magazine's name. Here, a look at how we taste-tested the submissions to arrive at the winner.
By Ash Carter and Sam Dangremond
We asked some of the nation's top bars and restaurants to create a cocktail worthy of this magazine's name. Here, a look at how we taste-tested the submissions to arrive at the winner.
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1Media Platforms Design Team
This magazine has chronicled high-spirited life in America since 1846, but it has never before given its name to a drink—until now. We solicited candidates from 20 select bars and restaurants around the country, then assembled a panel of cocktail experts (Belinda Chang, Jonathan Pogash, and Leo Robitschek, pictured here behind bartender Trevor Schneider at right) at Harding's, in New York City, to rank them. Here, we present the process of how we picked the winning recipe.
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Lemaire, Richmond.
2 oz. Bombay Sapphire Gin
1 oz. Lemonade (6 oz lemon juice, 9 oz simple syrup, 12 oz water)
1 oz. Honey and Thyme Gastrique (2 cups honey, 2 cups distilled white vinegar, 1 large handful of fresh thyme)
Combine ingredients with ice in a shaker tin, shake, and strain over fresh ice in highball glass & garnish with fresh thyme & lemon wheel.
Bring vinegar to boil with thyme while vinegar is coming to the boil, bring honey to simmer in a separate 4 qt. saucier over medium heat
Combine vinegar with honey but be careful as the mixture will boil over if it is not added slowly. Bring honey, vinegar & thyme mixture to boil and reduce to simmer.
Let mixture simmer for 12-15 minutes.
Strain mixture through chinois and let cool until you are ready to use.
Notes from judges: "Fishy, sweet."—Pogash; "I love the lemonade idea but the proportion is off and the gin gets lost."—Chang; "Creative but way too sweet."—Robitschek
1 oz. Lemonade (6 oz lemon juice, 9 oz simple syrup, 12 oz water)
1 oz. Honey and Thyme Gastrique (2 cups honey, 2 cups distilled white vinegar, 1 large handful of fresh thyme)
Combine ingredients with ice in a shaker tin, shake, and strain over fresh ice in highball glass & garnish with fresh thyme & lemon wheel.
Bring vinegar to boil with thyme while vinegar is coming to the boil, bring honey to simmer in a separate 4 qt. saucier over medium heat
Combine vinegar with honey but be careful as the mixture will boil over if it is not added slowly. Bring honey, vinegar & thyme mixture to boil and reduce to simmer.
Let mixture simmer for 12-15 minutes.
Strain mixture through chinois and let cool until you are ready to use.
Notes from judges: "Fishy, sweet."—Pogash; "I love the lemonade idea but the proportion is off and the gin gets lost."—Chang; "Creative but way too sweet."—Robitschek
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3Media Platforms Design Team
Chang records her impressions.
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4Media Platforms Design Team
A look at a judge's tasting notes.
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Cocktails from the 21 Club (left) and Boulevardier (center).
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The Carlyle, New York City.
1 slice of Pineapple
1 small slice of Ginger Root
2 oz of Plymonth Gin
1 oz of Maraschimo Liqueur
1.5 oz Fresh Lime Juice
Muddle the pineapple and ginger root. Add Pymonth Gin, Maraschino liqueur and fresh lime juice, shake all the ingredients together. Pour over ice into a Collins glass. Garnish with fresh sprig of mint.
Notes from bartender: "The liqueur and gin are meant to be the "town" portion and the pineapple, ginger and lime are the "country" portion."
Notes from judges: "Too tart, no integration of flavors. Not interesting at all."—Robitschek; "I wish the drink was more rounded; the maraschino is too heavy."—Chang; "All maraschino on the nose; wrong gin choice."—Pogash.
1 small slice of Ginger Root
2 oz of Plymonth Gin
1 oz of Maraschimo Liqueur
1.5 oz Fresh Lime Juice
Muddle the pineapple and ginger root. Add Pymonth Gin, Maraschino liqueur and fresh lime juice, shake all the ingredients together. Pour over ice into a Collins glass. Garnish with fresh sprig of mint.
Notes from bartender: "The liqueur and gin are meant to be the "town" portion and the pineapple, ginger and lime are the "country" portion."
Notes from judges: "Too tart, no integration of flavors. Not interesting at all."—Robitschek; "I wish the drink was more rounded; the maraschino is too heavy."—Chang; "All maraschino on the nose; wrong gin choice."—Pogash.
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Arnaud's, New Orleans
1.75 oz Dubonnet Rouge
.5 oz Luxardo Maraschino Liquer
.5 oz Fresh Ruby Red Grapefruit Juice
.25 oz Fresh Lime Juice
2 oz Brut Champagne (Mumm Napa is fine)
Grapefruit peel
Add the first 4 ingredients to a cocktail shaker, add ice and cover. Shake until properly diluted and chilled (10 to 15 seconds). Strain into a chilled champagne coupe glass and top with the very chilled Champagne. Garnish with grapefruit peel and enjoy.
Notes from the bartender: "This cocktail looks like what I depict Town and Country magazine readers, and contributing writers, to enjoy and embody. It's smart. It's a low alcohol cocktail with crisp sense of self. Whether in the country, or in the city, it is "chic" in its own relaxed way. In the country it says, 'while I like this quaint flora of land surrounding me, I still drink with sophistication.' In town it offers, 'while I'm fond of the hustle and bustle in this maddenning Metropolis, I can still, on occasion, disenchant myself from it with a proper tipple.'
Notes from judges: "I love the effervescence."—Chang. "Well balanced, but doesn't represent Americana or luxury."—Robitschek. "A little on the sweet side, full-on maraschino."—Pogash.
.5 oz Luxardo Maraschino Liquer
.5 oz Fresh Ruby Red Grapefruit Juice
.25 oz Fresh Lime Juice
2 oz Brut Champagne (Mumm Napa is fine)
Grapefruit peel
Add the first 4 ingredients to a cocktail shaker, add ice and cover. Shake until properly diluted and chilled (10 to 15 seconds). Strain into a chilled champagne coupe glass and top with the very chilled Champagne. Garnish with grapefruit peel and enjoy.
Notes from the bartender: "This cocktail looks like what I depict Town and Country magazine readers, and contributing writers, to enjoy and embody. It's smart. It's a low alcohol cocktail with crisp sense of self. Whether in the country, or in the city, it is "chic" in its own relaxed way. In the country it says, 'while I like this quaint flora of land surrounding me, I still drink with sophistication.' In town it offers, 'while I'm fond of the hustle and bustle in this maddenning Metropolis, I can still, on occasion, disenchant myself from it with a proper tipple.'
Notes from judges: "I love the effervescence."—Chang. "Well balanced, but doesn't represent Americana or luxury."—Robitschek. "A little on the sweet side, full-on maraschino."—Pogash.
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Schneider reviews a recipe with the judges.
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10Media Platforms Design Team
21 Club, New York City.
1.5 oz Premium Gin
1 oz Sage-Marmalade Simple Syrup*
1 oz Fresh Blood Orange Juice
.75 oz Fresh Lemon Juice
2 Fresh Sage Leaves (one to mix and one to garnish)
Pre-chill a Martini Glass. Place ice, one torn sage leaf and all other ingredients in a shaker, and shake vigorously. Strain into a chilled Martini glass. Garnish with fresh sage leaf. For extra flare, see below for a candied sage leaf.
Sage-Marmalade Syrup*
2 cups Water
1 cup White Sugar
5 Tbsp Orange Marmalade
5 Fresh Sage Leaves
Combine sugar and water in a small saucepan and place on medium heat. Stir to dissolve sugar. Add marmalade and stir to loosen the jelly. Let this mixture reduce, stirring occasionally, until it's half the original volume. Remove from heat and add sage leaves. Let the sage soak for 20 minutes as syrup cools and then strain mixture.
Candied Sage Leaves (Optional Garnish):
Set oven to Broil. Dip 10-15 sage leaves into the finished sage-marmalade syrup and place on a small pan lined with wax paper. Sprinkle the leaves with a touch of sugar (white or organic). Place pan on the bottom shelf of oven and let broil for no more than 10 minutes, allowing the sugar to caramelize on the leaves.
Notes from judges: "Balanced and summery. The blood orange adds a tart bitterness, but there are no distinct popping flavors. Too juicy."—Robitschek.
1 oz Sage-Marmalade Simple Syrup*
1 oz Fresh Blood Orange Juice
.75 oz Fresh Lemon Juice
2 Fresh Sage Leaves (one to mix and one to garnish)
Pre-chill a Martini Glass. Place ice, one torn sage leaf and all other ingredients in a shaker, and shake vigorously. Strain into a chilled Martini glass. Garnish with fresh sage leaf. For extra flare, see below for a candied sage leaf.
Sage-Marmalade Syrup*
2 cups Water
1 cup White Sugar
5 Tbsp Orange Marmalade
5 Fresh Sage Leaves
Combine sugar and water in a small saucepan and place on medium heat. Stir to dissolve sugar. Add marmalade and stir to loosen the jelly. Let this mixture reduce, stirring occasionally, until it's half the original volume. Remove from heat and add sage leaves. Let the sage soak for 20 minutes as syrup cools and then strain mixture.
Candied Sage Leaves (Optional Garnish):
Set oven to Broil. Dip 10-15 sage leaves into the finished sage-marmalade syrup and place on a small pan lined with wax paper. Sprinkle the leaves with a touch of sugar (white or organic). Place pan on the bottom shelf of oven and let broil for no more than 10 minutes, allowing the sugar to caramelize on the leaves.
Notes from judges: "Balanced and summery. The blood orange adds a tart bitterness, but there are no distinct popping flavors. Too juicy."—Robitschek.
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11Media Platforms Design Team
Tavern Law, Seattle.
1.75 oz St. George Botanivor Gin
1 oz Salers Aperifif Gentian Liqueur
.5 oz Fresh Lemon
.25 oz Simple Syrup
4 Cherry Tomatoes
4 Basil Leaves
2 Pinches of Salt
2 Pinches of Celery Seed
Add Tomatoes, Basil, Lemon, Salt, and Celery Seed. Muddle ingredients. Add spirits. Shake and fine strain over rocks. Top with soda water. Served in a vintage etched silver rimmed rock glass.
Notes from judges: "I like the idea, but the flavors are muddled."—Robitschek; "It needs to be balanced—I would eliminate the honey or the simple syrup, or both."—Chang.
1 oz Salers Aperifif Gentian Liqueur
.5 oz Fresh Lemon
.25 oz Simple Syrup
4 Cherry Tomatoes
4 Basil Leaves
2 Pinches of Salt
2 Pinches of Celery Seed
Add Tomatoes, Basil, Lemon, Salt, and Celery Seed. Muddle ingredients. Add spirits. Shake and fine strain over rocks. Top with soda water. Served in a vintage etched silver rimmed rock glass.
Notes from judges: "I like the idea, but the flavors are muddled."—Robitschek; "It needs to be balanced—I would eliminate the honey or the simple syrup, or both."—Chang.
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12Media Platforms Design Team
Belly and Trumpet, Dallas.
1 strawberry or half of large strawberry
Loose handful of tarragon springs
5 cucumber slices
2 lemon wedges
.5 oz simple syrup
1 oz Pimms
1.5 oz Redemption Rye Whiskey
1 oz Ginger beer
Garnish with large lemon twist or sprig of tarragon
Add tarragon and cucumber to chilled cocktail glass and muddle. Add strawberry and lemon and muddle. Add simple syrup, Pimms, and Redemption Rye and shake vigorously. Double strain into rocks glass, add ginger beer to shaken pulp and double strain once more. Garnish and serve.
Notes from judges: "Fresh citrus peel nose, watered down."—Pogash; "Good idea but too dilute."—Robitschek; "The ingredients don't assert themselves."—Chang.
Loose handful of tarragon springs
5 cucumber slices
2 lemon wedges
.5 oz simple syrup
1 oz Pimms
1.5 oz Redemption Rye Whiskey
1 oz Ginger beer
Garnish with large lemon twist or sprig of tarragon
Add tarragon and cucumber to chilled cocktail glass and muddle. Add strawberry and lemon and muddle. Add simple syrup, Pimms, and Redemption Rye and shake vigorously. Double strain into rocks glass, add ginger beer to shaken pulp and double strain once more. Garnish and serve.
Notes from judges: "Fresh citrus peel nose, watered down."—Pogash; "Good idea but too dilute."—Robitschek; "The ingredients don't assert themselves."—Chang.
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13Media Platforms Design Team
Dan Tana's, West Hollywood.
3 oz Ketel One Vodka
Notes from bartender: "This is a classic martini, served straight up, chilled, with an olive. No vermouth."
Notes from judges: "Ballsy move."—Chang; "Points for comedic value, but 10 years too late!"—Robitschek.
Notes from bartender: "This is a classic martini, served straight up, chilled, with an olive. No vermouth."
Notes from judges: "Ballsy move."—Chang; "Points for comedic value, but 10 years too late!"—Robitschek.
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14Media Platforms Design Team
The Beatrice Inn, New York
2 slices of seedless cucumber
.5 oz fresh squeezed lime juice
.5 oz fresh squeezed pineapple juice
.75 oz St. Germain liqueur
1.75 oz Crop Meyer Lemon Vodka
Muddle cucumber slices in lime juice. Add all other ingredients into a mixing glass. Add Ice and shake hard for 10 seconds. Fine strain into a chilled cocktail glass/coupe. Garnish with 1 dash of Peychauds Bitters.
Notes from judges: "Tasted too many times before in Vegas, Miami, and LA. Actually balanced but not worthy of Town & Country."—Robitschek; "Balanced, but not that interesting."—Chang.
.5 oz fresh squeezed lime juice
.5 oz fresh squeezed pineapple juice
.75 oz St. Germain liqueur
1.75 oz Crop Meyer Lemon Vodka
Muddle cucumber slices in lime juice. Add all other ingredients into a mixing glass. Add Ice and shake hard for 10 seconds. Fine strain into a chilled cocktail glass/coupe. Garnish with 1 dash of Peychauds Bitters.
Notes from judges: "Tasted too many times before in Vegas, Miami, and LA. Actually balanced but not worthy of Town & Country."—Robitschek; "Balanced, but not that interesting."—Chang.
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Weegee's, Chicago.
1.5 oz North Shore #11 Gin
1.5 oz Laird's Applejack
1.5 oz Cocchi Americano Aperitivo
.5 oz Velvet Falernum
1 dash of Fees Brothers Whiskey Barrel Aged Bitters
Mix, stir and pour. Garnish with Weegee's house made Korbel brandied Cherry.
Notes from judges: "Complex nose."—Pogash; "A touch sweet ... as it sits it gets too cloying and medicinal."—Robitschek.
1.5 oz Laird's Applejack
1.5 oz Cocchi Americano Aperitivo
.5 oz Velvet Falernum
1 dash of Fees Brothers Whiskey Barrel Aged Bitters
Mix, stir and pour. Garnish with Weegee's house made Korbel brandied Cherry.
Notes from judges: "Complex nose."—Pogash; "A touch sweet ... as it sits it gets too cloying and medicinal."—Robitschek.
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16Media Platforms Design Team
Boulevardier, Dallas.
The winner!
2 oz Bulliet Bourbon
.5 oz Carpano Antica Formula Vermouth
.5 oz Maple Syrup
3 dashes Bar Keep apple bitters
Add all ingredients to mixing glass and stir with ice. Strain over large ice cubes in a rocks glass and garnish with orange peel and a brandied cherry.
Notes from bartender Eddie Eakin: "I wanted to come up with something simple for a reader to replicate. No infusions, no syrups, no juicing. That also represents a publication that has been in print since the early 1900s, and a staple in American homes since before I was born. If you break it down, it is really a blend of a little 'Manhattan' and a little 'Old Fashioned,' two of the most quintessential classic cocktails. Apply this concept with bourbon, the most American of spirits, age-old American flavors such as maple and apple, and you have the 'Town and Country' cocktail."
Notes from judges: "This is the winner in my book. It's a good idea but very basic. Lots of American flavors. It's a little sweet though. I'd modify the syrup to a bar spoon."—Robitschek; "Total bon vivant, very classic. So could weather. American. Apple pie."—Chang.
The judges modified Eakin's recipe, cutting the maple syrup, from .5 oz to 1 tsp, to make it slightly less sweet. Then they settled on this as the winning recipe for the Town & Country cocktail:
2 oz Bulleit Bourbon
.5 oz Carpano Antica Formula vermouth
1 tsp Crown Maple dark amber syrup
3 dashes Bar Keep apple bitters
Add all ingredients to mixing glass and stir with ice. Strain over large ice cubes in a rocks glass and garnish with orange peel and a brandied cherry.
2 oz Bulliet Bourbon
.5 oz Carpano Antica Formula Vermouth
.5 oz Maple Syrup
3 dashes Bar Keep apple bitters
Add all ingredients to mixing glass and stir with ice. Strain over large ice cubes in a rocks glass and garnish with orange peel and a brandied cherry.
Notes from bartender Eddie Eakin: "I wanted to come up with something simple for a reader to replicate. No infusions, no syrups, no juicing. That also represents a publication that has been in print since the early 1900s, and a staple in American homes since before I was born. If you break it down, it is really a blend of a little 'Manhattan' and a little 'Old Fashioned,' two of the most quintessential classic cocktails. Apply this concept with bourbon, the most American of spirits, age-old American flavors such as maple and apple, and you have the 'Town and Country' cocktail."
Notes from judges: "This is the winner in my book. It's a good idea but very basic. Lots of American flavors. It's a little sweet though. I'd modify the syrup to a bar spoon."—Robitschek; "Total bon vivant, very classic. So could weather. American. Apple pie."—Chang.
The judges modified Eakin's recipe, cutting the maple syrup, from .5 oz to 1 tsp, to make it slightly less sweet. Then they settled on this as the winning recipe for the Town & Country cocktail:
2 oz Bulleit Bourbon
.5 oz Carpano Antica Formula vermouth
1 tsp Crown Maple dark amber syrup
3 dashes Bar Keep apple bitters
Add all ingredients to mixing glass and stir with ice. Strain over large ice cubes in a rocks glass and garnish with orange peel and a brandied cherry.
Sam Dangremond
Contributing Digital Editor
Sam Dangremond is a Contributing Digital Editor at Town & Country, where he covers men's style, cocktails, travel, and the social scene.
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