Decoding a Dresscode: Modern Rules to Black Tie and More

We have all been there. An invitation arrives in your mailbox, you open and instantly read the dress code: It's black tie. But what does black tie mean in an age when everything seems to be casual or the standards of dressing seems malleable. Here at T&C, we'd argue that much like Oscar Wilde famously quipped, "You can never be overdressed or overeducated." That being said, there are some dress code rules to follow that ensure no matter what the invitation says, you will always look occasion appropriate. We caught up with stylist Bailey Moon (whose clients include Naomi Biden) to get the scoop on the modern rules for black tie, white tie and every dress code in between, so that being underdressed simply isn't a problem you'll ever face.

White Tie

First thing is first: white tie is the most formal dress code possible, with the exception of White Tie Decoration, which Moon reminds is one step up in formality. "This is only really used for royal ceremonies where one can display their medals of honor."

An example of white tie decoration.

How to approach White Tie:

In the 2020s, the principals of White Tie formality remain essentially the same as they were 100 years ago. Moon suggests that while the framework is standard, a few of the common accessories can be ditched in favor of a "more modern interpretation." We typically see White Tie occasions within a certain kind of society, the most traditional of weddings, and at ceremonial or diplomatic events, he explains.

Ladies: The white tie rules for women are simple to follow. A full length gown, heels, jewelry, and a clutch are the foundation, and "while white elbow length gloves are a nice touch, they are no longer really required."

Jacqueline Kennedy wearing a strapless dress and elbow length gloves.

Gentlemen:

For men, white tie should consist of an evening tailcoat with peaked lapels, a white bow tie, a stiff white shirt evening shirt with cufflinks and mother of pearl studs in place of buttons. Pro tip: the white bow tie, according to Moon should be hand tied as opposed to pre-tied. "The 19th century version of this would require men to wear top hats, white gloves and carry a cane. All of these accessories are no longer needed and veer costume-y when worn," explains Moon. Instead, " add a brooch to your lapel for an elevated accessory."

Black Tie

How to approach black tie:

Moon explains that not only is black tie less formal than white tie, but it gives room for a more personal interpretation of the dress code. That said, context clues are important, " Consider the invitation and the formalness of the event to suss out the level of dress up that might want to be achieved with black tie. " Another pro tip that ensures success? When in doubt, always dress a bit fancier rather than dressing down.

Ladies:

When dressing for black tie, Moon explains that floor length gowns are typically preferred, but but midi dresses and appropriate cocktail dresses work as well.

Camila Morrone wearing Chanel Couture.

Gentlemen:

Swap tails for a tuxedo jacket and bowtie. "Cumberbunds are preferred but I personally don't adhere to that rule," he adds. However, there are some non-neogtiables. "A tuxedo shirt and cufflinks always unless you're wearing a Thom Browne tuxedo ( he prefers a slightly wrinkled texture to his button downs to break up the formalness of the suit)."

Black Tie Optional

What to do?

The dreaded black tie optional doesn't have to be so anxiety inducing. Instead, take it as a suggestion that the event is not as formal and many varieties of dress should be acceptable.

Ladies: For women a floor length evening gown is appropriate, as is a cocktail dress, or even dressy separates.

Gentlemen:

A tuxedo is preferred for this but a dark suit or a tie instead of a bowtie does work as well. Using color also works for this dress code, if one were to choose to wear a colored bowtie or a flourish of color in their suit, but ultimately "darker colors are most appropriate for this category."

Creative Black Tie

Creative black tie is what its name suggests—and is nothing to fret over—says Moon. "The main difference between the two is that creative black tie opens the door for bolder and more colorful choices of dress." Some tips to follow: silhouette in this case doesn't have to be as formal. Instead, " textures, embellishments and color are all encouraged."

For men this could be interpreted as wearing a colorful suit or a non-traditional cut. For women, it could also mean wearing a colorful suit, but is also an opportunity to wear something with a bit of fun. Think: feathers, fringe or any other kind of embellishment.

Cate Blanchett at this year’s Earthshot Prize Awards.

Success No Matter the Season

Consider purchasing your tux:

"This is a great investment," says Moon, adding "Be sure to have it tailored, and dry clean in between wears." Renting a tux is fine if you don't often attend events that require one, but it doesn't look quite as sharp as a suit you can tailor to your proportions and fit, says the Pro. A high quality suit will transition seasonally and you can switch up shoes and accessories.

For the ladies, similar rules apply:

"Invest in a great versatile clutch, some favorite pumps and sandals in black and metallics and an evening coat."

During the Colder Months

Pass on the parka:

Your puffer simply is not appropriate. Opt for an evening coat instead.

Ladies: A fur or faux-fur shrug. A gorgeous velvet coat will also do.

During the Warmer Months

Ladies: Many of above recommendations still apply but women should feel free to mix in colors, and seasonally appropriate accessories like heeled sandals and clutches.

Gentlemen: White dinner jackets made their debut in the 1930s as "a way for well-heeled vacationers to dress formally in the tropical heat without having to endure the heavy and dark-colored fabrics that were standard for evening wear at the time," blacktieguide.com reports. In America, the light jacket is now appropriate to wear during the summer months, especially at weddings and formal occasions in the country.

Some Miscellaneous Tips

Moon reminds that ultimately dress codes for formal events have loosened, and as such appropriate interpretations can be made. Of course, Moon reminds, it is essential to be mindful of each event, the other attendees, and specifics listed on the invite. " For example with a black tie event, men have other fashionable ways of representing a bow tie without wearing a traditional one. An elevated bolo tie, or bow made from ribbon or leather are all great alternatives. It still allows the wearer to be respectful of the traditions while putting a modern spin on the requirements."

An example of a non-traditional tie a la Lewis Pullman.